Rosa Pomponella is a reliable, hardy variety. It features long generous flowering and the original addition of densely-colored flowers. Rose has good resistance to external factors. Suitable for growing in mixborders and for solitary planting.
Grade characteristics
Rose floribunda Pomponella (Pomponella) Cordes was represented by breeders of the German company Kordes in 2005. By the nature and energy of growth, it can most likely be ranked among scrubs (park roses). The variety often outgrows the declared sizes: width 60 cm, height up to 80 cm.
Description of Pomponella rose: unpretentious plant, undemanding to soil and care. It blooms profusely, with a short break, in the hands appears from 10 or more buds. A single flower has an average size (4-5 cm) and looks like a tight pompom. The aroma is delicate, unobtrusive, preserved even in dried flowers.
Blooming Pomponella Brush
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
Rosa Pomponella is distinguished by enviable endurance, dense glossy foliage is resistant to disease. The bush is branched, densely leafy. The plant quickly acclimatizes after transplantation, stably winters well.
Pompom rose at the peak of flowering is very decorative, produces a large number of simultaneously flowering buds in the brushes. Flowers are not damaged by rainfall.
Among the disadvantages of the variety:
- poorly tolerates heat: petals burn out and fade;
- by the end of summer, throws long shoots, violating the harmony of the bush;
- plain pink color, without transitions, may seem uninteresting.
Important! The rose is universal, perfect for a single landing or in a mixborder. Due to the high repairability of flowering and the characteristic pion-shaped shape of flowers, the variety looks advantageous in the form of a stem.
Cultivation and care
Rose does not require close attention, to cope with the care of Pomponella by the strength of a novice gardener.
Landing
Approximate calendar dates for planting roses in open ground:
- spring: end of April - first half of May;
- Autumn: September - early October.
When spring planting, you should focus on the weather. It is necessary that the soil warms up evenly and the threat of spring frosts passes. It is more difficult to guess with the forecast in autumn, usually it takes 2 to 3 weeks for the roses to root and adapt. Pomponella tolerates planting and transplanting well, in case of threat of imminent frost, it is recommended to cover the plant.
When choosing a landing site, you should pay attention to the east and west sides near the buildings to ensure the shade of the rose at noon. You can not plant a plant in places of high groundwater and in a lowland where rain and melt water accumulate. An ideal place with a slight slope towards the south, protected from strong winds and drafts.
Important! Pomponella is a viable plant, the basic soil requirements are permeability to moisture and air.
Dense loam is diluted with sand and peat, compost, turfy soil and humus are added to the sandy soil.
Watering
The plant needs additional watering in the period 2 to 3 weeks after planting. In dry summers, an adult bush is recommended to be watered once a week in an amount of 10 - 14 liters of water.
So that water penetrates directly to the root system, and does not spread over the surface, a low mound is made around the bush.
After watering, loosening of the soil is required so that the crust frozen under the sun does not block the air access to the roots.
Mulching the basal area with hay or wood shavings will help preserve moisture from evaporation.
Top dressing
During the growing season, the use of fertilizers will help to accelerate growth and improve the quality of flowering. It is best to alternate feeding with complex and organic fertilizers, this approach allows the plant to better absorb nutrients and trace elements.
Organic fertilizers contain a large amount of nitrogen needed for the growth of shoots, they are introduced only until mid-summer. Sources of nitrogen for roses:
- compost from plant and food residues;
- rotted manure.
To increase soil fertility, peat is recommended.
Mineral complex fertilizers will improve the flowering and increase the resistance of roses. The main elements, the lack of which will affect the health and decorativeness of the variety:
- potassium;
- phosphorus;
- calcium;
- magnesium;
- iron.
In addition to complex fertilizers from the store, you can use simpler dressings. They saturate the earth in the form of infusion or laying out the dry matter in the grooves:
- wood ash;
- blood and bone meal;
- inkstone.
Fertilizer can be applied to the basal area or by spraying the aerial part of the plant throughout the season.
Important! For spraying, a smaller amount of top dressing is dissolved so as not to burn the foliage.
Pruning
This is one of the main ways to care for the rose bush. In the spring, after removing the winter shelter, the preserved green shoots are shortened to living tissue. The slice should be white. All dried up, darkened, with traces of mold and broken branches are cut at an ascending angle of 1.5 - 2 cm above a living kidney.
To give the bush a vase-like, open shape, a cut is made over a bud growing from the center.
To rejuvenate the bush, old lignified branches are cut, not able to fully bloom. Thin lateral and inwardly growing shoots are also removed in the spring and throughout the season. They do not give abundant flowering, hamper the circulation of air and take away nutrients from healthy, flowering branches. Faded brushes are removed to the first five-leafed leaf.
Pomponella is well rooted by cuttings, an adult root plant overwinters and develops just as well as on a rosehip rootstock.
External kidney trimming
Diseases, pests
Pomponella rosea is highly resistant to black spotting. On young leaves and at the base of the buds in a particularly wet summer, white powdery mildew may appear. The danger is a serious, little cureable disease of roses - bacterial cancer. Fortunately, it is not common. It can be detected by swelling and nodular growths on the stems, root neck. The plant is usually destroyed.
Pests of roses, most often attacking young juicy shoots and buds:
- aphid;
- rosette leaflet;
- spider mite.
You can get rid of the invasion of pests by treating the ground with insecticidal drugs. Foliar treatment involves abundant wetting of the leaves, not only the upper plate, but also the lower part of the leaf.
Autumn planting of roses
A spectacular mixborder will turn out if you plant next another kind of pompom roses, for example, raspberry red Ascott or lavender pink Misty Bubbles. Floribunda Pomponella, a confident soloist and reliable companion in plantings, thanks to abundant flowering before frosts. This variety must be paid attention to all flower lovers.
